You’re more likely to get the exercise if your lifestyle is based around it anyway. I often fall behind in my running, but I don’t lose too much fitness because of all the cycling I do.
3 Likes
I can’t view bike riding as exercise- my brain won’t let it work that way. I have to treat is as fun-play. Then it’s not work or a workout, it’s just goofing off in the woods on a bike. Much better.
I wish (WISH) I could commute by bike these days, but, alas, it’s just too far. I’m not afraid to get sweaty, but 26 miles each way is a lot for a commute.
9 Likes
I don’t do very much for exercise alone - if I don’t run, I’ll often waste the whole day because I can’t concentrate. It’s also fun to run around the nearby lake, and I’m working toward a few longer distance runs (which is exercise, but at least it’s goal-orientated). I’ve got the opposite problem to you with my commute, which is downstairs for work, and about 2 km x4 for dropping the kids off at school. I go shopping and run other errands by bike, but it rarely reaches a decent distance unless I go out on purpose.
On the positive side, I’ve actually lost weight since I became a dad - it turns out hauling kids around by bike uses up plenty of energy!
9 Likes
Someone stole this guy’s bike a couple of days ago! He was keeping it in a garage and I guess someone broke in and took it. However, he got it back after someone sold it to him for 250 EUR (the original price was 11,500 EUR, so he’s just happy to have it back).
5 Likes
Best basic commuter road bike bought new?
ETA and why is it best?
I’m going to defer to others until I see what is on the market. A few basic questions that will probably help people answer:
- What distance are you commuting?
- What’s the terrain like?
- What seasons and what weather?
- How much will you need to carry? (Include inclement weather gear if the last question calls for it.)
(Complete side note for @Kimmo: Why is this topic under wrath? Maybe it’s up thread and I just missed it…)
ETA: Bicycles are listed in the wrath category. Not sure how I could have missed that.
3 Likes
Thx. It’s for commuting no more than 20 miles on paved streets, some hills, in all weather, including rain, carrying a laptop, pad, water bottle and a few books maybe.
What’s your definition of “best basic commuter road bike”?
My idea of that is ‘the cheapest thing that’s not-awful enough to avoid being a constant source of frustration’. In a Decathlon-having country, that might be something like this entry-level B’Twin:
Competent design, lots of gears, reliable workhorse parts, and (unlike many more racing-inspired road bikes) can fit fenders, racks and a 28mm tire – the fatter the better for city riding, if you ask me. Add some lights and a lock and there you have it. Also important, you have an actual place to go to and fix something under warranty if needed, which you wouldn’t have buying from bikesdirect or something.
Speaking of that: Not sure if it applies to you, or even if the bike is for you in the first place, but a beginner rider is going to need extra help with things like bike fit, initial setup, learning about gear and maintenance. So a good relationship with a decent local bike shop is not a factor to be dismissed.
All that said, why does it have to be new? If affordability is factor, a well-maintained used bike (or completely garage-queen unused ‘used’ bike, which isn’t that rare) will very likely be a better value if you know enough to not be swindled.
3 Likes
“Best” is a difficult thing with bikes.
As an example of a neat bike, there’s this:
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/adventure/awol/106553
That has a steel frame and fork (comfortable, in theory), wide 45mm tires (durable and comfortable), a lovely front rack, space for fenders, disc brakes for crap weather. It looks to be a reasonably well thought out bike.
It’s $1350. Depending on the bike world you come from, that’s either not-very-much or a whole lotta dollars.
Trek makes a pretty similar bike for similar money: http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/road-bikes/adventure-touring-bikes/520/520-disc/p/1432009-2016
If you’re willing to go with a flat bar, there’s this:
http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/bikes/city-bikes/urban-commuter-bikes/district/district-igh-3/p/1364000-2016
Which is kinda neat- that one has an internally geared rear hub and a belt drive (for lower maintenance). It’ll run you $1100, but they used to make a steel version with a conventional drivetrain, and I’ve seen those going for $650. Which is cool.
Best advice I can give you re: commuting is to get the bag off your back and onto/into a rack. I like front racks, as I think the bike rides better with weight over the front wheel, but that’s me.
I hope that helps (somewhat, maybe).
6 Likes
the only scuttlebutt on new stuff I’ve heard that may help is budget-minded:
bikesdirect.com has reliable stuff with great price for the spec, BUT the frames are no-name and comparatively notably heavier than a name brand. that’s how they get ya. but a good spec’d wheelset and groupo is arguably more important than weight savings on a frame if you aren’t racing. then again, you never know what you’re missing until you lift up your buddy’s bike one day and it’s like a feather, you realize all the extra pounds you’re hauling X miles per day. it’s a sobering feeling.
Jamis is the red-headed stepchild of name-brands. I’m told they’re good but they don’t have the brand recognition to charge the higher prices of Giant/Spec/Trek. So if you see something you like/comparable in spec to a big brand, you might be able to save a bit with them.
again, scuttlebutt, but I’ve seen it a lot on the internet over the years.
you already know about semi-wide tire and fender clearance and rack/fender mounting eyelets. gearing is a thing but explaining it is a separate topic (avoid anything obviously race-y.) Every brand is going to have model(s) that are going to suit you tiered-out according to spec/weight. “Best” is picking which tier makes sense and then looking for deals (stating the obvious, i guess.) don’t follow the new market really, sorry.
saw this a while back. just look at it.
17 Likes
this is my finding. if it’s heavy stuff you’re hauling, mounting it low and getting a wheel stabilizer makes the handling, uh, stable. but for a backpack, just over the wheel is absolutely fine.
2 Likes
I’ve carried what can only be described as an “irresponsible” amount of weight in a front basket (with struts running to the fender mounts, mind you). It made the ride home entertaining- but totally manageable.
3 Likes
+1 re the possibility of getting a better deal second-hand, but with new bikes these days you get a lot more for your money than you used to.
The B’Twin you posted is a great buy; a solid platform for future upgrading if desired. The carbon fork and ally frame should be pretty light, and carbon forks are a boon; a half-decent one improves handling and braking by providing grip via compliance. Add a carbon seatpost, and the flex in that will improve the ride quality out of sight. Throw some light wheels on it down the track and it should go like a beast.
The basic spec on it is no bummer at all, either - Shimano’s cheaper gear is rock-solid (as opposed to their cheapest), and two things about this groupset make it actually better than higher-end stuff - the triple crank and front shifting isn’t available higher up in the range, which is a damn shame. Paired with a close-ratio road cassette like the one on the pictured bike, it has the best of both worlds - close and wide. The other thing is the exposed shift cables - they might look ugly, but they’re a shitload easier to replace, and they don’t introduce excess friction, which can often be a major PITA with Shimano’s 10s rear shifting, which doesn’t have enough cable pull for a really reliable signal-to-noise ratio in the cable system when you have under-tape cables.
- Bonus pedant points to anyone who noticed the assembler didn’t remove the alignment sticker from the front derailer
3 Likes
You are awesome! Thank you everyone for all of this expert and generous help.
More of the vocabulary is over my head than I’d like, but I’m searching terms and reading and learning lots. I’m definitely going to bring home a bike thanks in large part to this thread.
8 Likes
btw, when you say “under 20 miles,” you mean total, or 15+ miles to work and then 15+ miles back?
2 Likes
I didn’t post this thread. But yeah, I totally would’ve put in the wrath category, for the reason you discovered.
Mind you, threads about cycling are only political when motorists are involved.
6 Likes
motorists? you mean those people surrounded by cages? it makes them so mad to be in their cage. I guess they hate freedom.
8 Likes
Double fail on my part. I’m no sure why I assumed you started it, and I know the wrath that comes about when 2 wheeled vehicles (motorized or not) have to share space with the multi wheeled metal boxes.
4 Likes
5 Likes
@hello_friends: All of Sheldon’s writings on bicycles are informative. The glossary is a good intro for terms, but if you’re new to the beasts, spend some time looking through his stuff.
6 Likes
