It works well. If it is too small a Dremel with one of those round grindy bits works as well.
A tap and die set to clean or re-cut threads is also a life saver. If there is ever a want for more info, I could probably get TheMachinist (my friend, Nelson, also known as Master of the Physical Universe) to drop some knowledge.
Somewhat related is this One Weird Trick I learned from a retired Boeing engineer.
To avoid cross threading screws is to hand tighten in reverse until you feel it “click” into place then hand thread the correct direction for a couple of turns before using the screwdriver. That clicking is the threads perfectly aligning with the threads guide on the screw. That along with a couple of hand turns mean that it’ll be very unlikely that you’ll strip the threads or cross thread.
I’ll bet I’ve used my tap and die set more to fix damaged threads than to cut new ones.
If you’re fastening hardwood parts that you may want to take apart and reassemble in the future, a tapped hole for a machine screw is more reliable than a wood screw. although threaded inserts are better for actual knock-down projects.
Hardwood == dowels, you monster!!
(Just in case, you know I’m mostly kidding :D)
What part of “take apart” did you not understand? 
And does a double equals sign mean “does not equal” or “really really equals”?
A single equal means assign value. A double equals means evaluate value. A triple equals means evaluate sameness.
But the fine machine threads are far more prone to strip. I like wood screws with drill heads, sometimes I’ll even take one of the sheet metal screws I’m using and use a Dremel to cut a drill head on it and use that one as a tap. Works in plastics like Acetal too.
As for the Phillips debate, I MUCH prefer to make my stuff using Allen or Robertson heads. Problem is if it needs maintenance or adjustment on stage or on the road, the likelihood that they have the appropriate driver is much lower than them having a Phillips. I actually once put together a bitdriver set for one of my clients with the various appropriate sizes and types in the handle.
When I first worked in an animatronic shop, they were stocked entirely with slot head screws, down to size 0. Ever try and get a 0-80 x 1/4" screw in the hole when it won’t stick securely and magnetically to the driver like a Phillips will? When I got to order stuff it was Phillips, or Allen cap screws.
I know this amounts to heresy, and might get me banned… But this is one of the central tenants of good wood gluing. When dealing with wood, if you care about appearance, a strong bonding agent and a fine Japanese pull saw are the two most important tools in the universe.
Can’t imagine doing a job, any job, where I didn’t pre-drill all the screw holes. How do you do good work you can be proud of, any other way?. How do you counter sink the heads without pre-drilling the holes?.
when they tell you philips they don’t tell you that the angle of the slot have differences
I came across a small little known company locally that did a drill system that made square holes
For me, it’s almost always wood, when I’m in a hurry, it’s the last screw, and kids are nearby to hear me say “fucking fuck”. Commodity Phillips screws are too often cheap crap, strip like a banana.
That’s not a ‘weird trick’. That’s the standard way of doing it. 
In what little cabinetry I’ve done I became a big fan of “glue and screws”
That’s less of a problem in Canada, where any multi-bit screwdriver will include Robertson bits, although the foreign-made ones are often poorly made.
For rough carpentry in softwood or plywood, it’s done all the time, ever since screws started to be used in applications where nails would have been used in the past. Any decent driver has the torque to sink a flathead screw flush.
Warning: NSFW (not safe for the workshop).
[spoiler]When repairing docks using 4" screws, I’ve been known to drive the screws half way with a hammer, finishing with a cordless drill. This makes it easier to start the screws straight, and saves battery power. I’m proud of my docks.
(I’ve known old-school carpenters who insisted that screws hold better if driven with a hammer, and that screwdrivers were just for taking them out. I think they were kidding. 
)[/spoiler]
I’ve used Spax stuff on my own projects ever since I encountered their modified star drive bits and screws. The bits have a little cylindrical extension on the end tipped with a shallow cone, and this fits into a corresponding hole in the screw to make driver alignment impossible to get wrong. They are really mechanically satisfying to use (the same sort of satisfaction I get from playing with precisely-machined fidget toys).
Mortising bits?
I’m reminded of the EDM tap removal video Rob posted last year:
I’ve heard of drywall being hung with a hammer and screws…
never heard of the robertson head before
my thinking is there in the interference dept
