I was looking around for an open source Linux solution to this after I blew the $20 on the thing but there is no open source database of the codes. All the stuff is proprietary. I was really naive when I bought it. I totally thought that I’d not only be able to get the error codes, but that I’d also be able to initiate an ABS brake bleeding procedure! I learned a lot real fast. Only the $1500 tool can do it, and even then maybe not. You might have to use the car manufacturer’s windows software to perform bleeding procedures depending on the make. And I didn’t even look into any of the other problems like oxygen sensing. I was only interested in brakes and came up short.
I did save myself a ton of cash though. Here’s what I did. The problem was a blown ABS pump. New for a Toyota, that thing is about $750 or more. But I bought one on eBay taking a gamble that it was ok. I bid and won for $100. It showed up in bubble wrap. The problem with replacing an ABS pimp is two fold. First, you have to carefully disconnect all the little brake fluid pipes connected to it. In a ten year old car this is a tricky task because if you damage one you are looking at an involved teardown to replace that metal line. So you gotta be careful & lucky . Second, once the new pump is in, you have to bleed the brakes. On an old VW, that’s easy you just pump the brakes and feed the master cylinder fluid until all the air is out. But on newer cars with ABS, you can’t do that. You gave to cycle all the valves in the ABS pump in sequence. You need the computer to cycle these valves.
So I took the pump and a printed copy of the Toyota shop manual on ABS bleeding procedure to the mechanic down the street. I also put a ton of Kroil on all the little ABS pipe connections. And I got an old toothbrush and cleaned them really well and put more Kroil on them. Then I spoke to two mechanics, plead my case to install this part and not hold them responsible if it didn’t work. We agreed that they would douse the connections with more Kroil and leave it sit over the weekend before trying to disconnect it. Then they’d replace the pump and use their computer to do the bleed.
Long story short, it worked great. Total repair: $300. Expected repair cost: $1500. Saved myself at least a thousand bucks by doing all the legwork and parts acquisition.
I don’t know why I typed all of that. Bored I guess and proud of myself for solving an annoying problem despite being so ignorant about cheap code readers.