Clever, but I’d just wind up sewing my thumb to the cloth :-o
I usually have those marks when hand sewing.
My marks are red, though.
Isn’t that what a thimble is for? (or better yet, a sewing machine?) Now, someone needs to show me a slipstiching machine, and I’d be all set.
I’ll watch for your kickstarter for a kevlar thimble with preprinted marks.
I could be wrong, but I believe a thimble is usually worn on the other hand.
Kevlar, unfortunately, is terrible at puncture resistance to pointy objects like needles. Bullet resistance and stab resistance are not equivalent. Kevlar is somewhat cut resistant, and is found in some cut resistant gloves for the food prep industry, but it isn’t as cut resistant as the modern chain-mail food prep gloves.
You are correct sir. Thimbles are worn on the middle finger (usually) of your dominant hand so you can more easily push the needle through the layers of fabric. The thimble end is dimpled so that the needle doesn’t skid off.
I wasn’t sure. Handsewing isn’t something I enjoy, yet because of topology problems, not everything can be sewn with a machine. Usually, patterns call for at least some slipstitching.
Why go half way?
I’d like to think that’s just for show. But I’ve seen one of these tattoos before and the person was quite clear about its intended use…
Given that the skin tends to stretch over time, I’d suggest having these scales in the form of temporary tattoos instead.
For smaller distances, what about stickers to adhere on fingernails?
You’re too likely to smudge the marker onto the fabric this way, and you’d have to move your thumb too often. I dot nail polish along the needle at the interval I want so it becomes its own sewing gauge. It works as long as the dots aren’t too thick.
Try to score the needle with an edge of a file, or a dremel tool mill. Round/polish the marks so they wouldn’t make the needle seize when going through the fabric.
I actually have tried that, but either my skills or my tools aren’t up to making grooves without disastrously weakening the needle or snagging the fabric. (I should note the needle in question is usually a #10 hand quilting needle, which is very fine.) Someone should invent a needle that’s manufactured pre-marked.
Try etching, then. Or, better, some sort of a reactive acid-based ink that etches the metal in more visible way.
Good idea–etching would be ideal. But probably more trouble than I’d go to if I’m honest. One of the needle companies should etch them and sell them at various stitches to the inch. Quilters would buy them.
This works when you’re measuring picots in tatting, as well.
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