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The enormous figure raised questions when the quote was posted online, with commenters on Reddit and beyond raising questions as to its authenticity. However, fact-checking website Snopes was able to confirm with the dealership that the quote was indeed legitimate.
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My 17-y.-o. (see July 6 post ↑) keeps making the case that I should buy one of these, even though the very newest ones are at least 5 years old. This kind of story is why I figure a hybrid (or electric) ought to be new (or new enough) so that it’s still covered by a warranty. Perhaps my feelings about needing the warranty are unwarranted?
Not that we’re getting rich keeping same 17-y.-o.'s internal combustion engine going…
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We’re considering a Chevy bolt euv. The 15 year old Hyundai has reached the point of needing a lot of expensive fixes that just aren’t worth it. We really want an EV, but so many are expensive and we can’t get the miniature ones. We have a growing kid
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You might look at the “SUV” version of the Bolt that just came out. My friend with a kid just got one and they love it. EV’s expensive, it’s true. I leased both the ones I had, not just for cost, but because the technology is changing quickly and I didn’t want to commit to something for 25 years. That worked out well, because three years after I got my Leaf, the Bolt came out, which is cheaper, nicer, larger, and had 2.5x the range.
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Yeah, it’s the Bolt EUV (their cute way of saying SUV) that we are looking at. Everything else in that size range is so much more expensive.
I should talk to the spouse about leasing. You have a good point about the technology changing so quickly. Usually we are a buy and drive until the repairs outweigh the benefits kind of people. Might be time to change that. Good to know your friends like their Bolt EUV!
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Yah I’ve always been opposed to leasing. In general it is kind of a sucker’s bet IMHO, but I think EVs might be a case where it makes sense. The only sad part of the Bolt for me was giving it back at the end of the lease! Their buy-out price was bonkers and we were moving out of the country later that year (which became three years because COVID), otherwise I very well might have walked over to the used lot and bought one.
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Curious to know why you’re looking at the EUV rather than EV version of the Bolt. The EV costs less, has greater range, and actually has slightly more cargo space than the EUV. The EUV doesn’t really have any off-road capability that the EV doesn’t, so it’s mostly a matter of styling, right?
I haven’t test-driven both versions yet so maybe there are other benefits I’m unaware of. But this reviewer prefers the EV version:
No. Absolutely not. Theres a lot of electrical stuff in there, it’ll never dry right, and then get moldy. If your trunk carpet needs cleaning, consider getting it professionally shampooed by a detailer.
It it’s ruined beyond repair the entire carpeted area can be removed and replaced with an OEM part that’s pre-cut for an exact fit. Depending on what needs to be replaced (inner liner, spare tire cover, side liner, etc.) I wouldn’t expect more than $100-$200 per section OEM (or you can go aftermarket for even cheaper). It’s basically just held in with a bunch of clips and can be a DIY job as long as you have the special clip puller tool (trust me on this — you can use a screwdriver alone but just spending $10 on the right clip puller tool from Amazon will save you so much time, anguish, and potential cost of replacing broken clips which can be shockingly expensive).
I once had an entire bottle of fabric softener explode in my trunk and had to pull all the carpeted areas in there to let them air out. With the right tool it’s actually not really difficult. Don’t lose or break those clips though if you can help it. I recall a pack of like 5 Honda carpet clips being like $15 which is highway robbery.
Also consider investing in a rubberized trunk liner for the future by Weathertec or OEM to protect it in the future since those can be easily removed and hosed off. Don’t cheap out, get one specifically fitted to your vehicle. It’ll be worth it when you need it.
ETA I just realized this was a really old post. Must have slipped my radar.
ETA 2 I was half awake when I originally replied. Fixed some typos and stuff and added more info. I know it’s an old post but may as well try to be helpful.
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Cargo space isn’t the primary concern. Leg room in the back seat is. Those 3 inches could be critical.
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Fair, although for $2k in savings plus improved range my back seat passengers can just shut up and deal with the discomfort, as far as I’m concerned. 
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If it wasn’t going to be the primary drive-the-kid-and-her-friends car, I’d probably make that choice too. We will definitely look at both and we’ll have to talk about realistically how long we’ll keep it. The kid isn’t that tall just yet but growing like a weed!
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I’m pretty proud of myself for finally doing a very intimidating repair job on my old Nissan Hardbody. These trucks have workhorse engines that routinely clock 300k or more, but have a common, potentially fatal flaw: The timing chain tensioner loosens over time, causing a loud rattle, destruction of the chain guide, and ultimately engine failure if the chain starts skipping teeth. So, I bought a self-adjusting chain tensioner and installed it through the chain cover, by drilling a hole in the cover.
Rocker cover removed:
I had to remove the top two belts, the fan, idler pulleys, and detach the power steering pump and swing it out of the way. That gave me enough room to use a hole saw with a 90-degree adapter to make this hole in the chain cover:
That’s the old chain tensioner right there. The hole is for access to unbolt the old tensioner, which can then be lifted out of the top. The hole is then plugged with a 1-1/2" expansion plug.
I also replaced the exhaust-side chain guide, which was broken in half (as expected). The other half is down in the oil pan, but is surely in multiple small pieces by now, and any chunks that somehow get out of the oil pan would be filtered by the oil pump screen and oil filter.
If any of you have a late-1990s hardbody with this issue (and they all do), this guy has a whole YouTube channel about it, and will sell you the important part(s). It took me more than a couple hours, but I was being extra cautious.
The truck runs great now, BTW. Loose timing chain = poor timing = less power.
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Holy cow! I could never work up the nerve to do something like that, and I’ve done a LOT of DIY modifications to my car. I’d have to have half a bottle of tequila in me to even think about taking a hole saw to engine block like that, and then I’d just pass out in the engine bay.
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Well it was just the chain cover I drilled through, not the block. If I messed it up, it could be replaced, albeit with substantial cost and effort.
It was definitely a leap of faith, though. I watched those videos many times before I started drilling.
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Well, that’’s brave. I changed the whole front end of my car but I still haven’t connected the fog lamps because it involves soldering…
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May I suggest a crimper? Much easier than soldering.
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I was being dramatic. I was thinking heat shrink butt splices.
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