A number of my switches are wired this way. The neutral has nothing to do at the switch anyway.
This worked fine with my old X10 system, but since X10 relies on a small current going through the bulb, it’s not suitable for LEDs, that glow even when nominally off.
X10 was ideal for my purposes, basically to have lights operate when we were away. It didn’t need to be connected to a computer except to program it, and the controller had a battery backup to ride through power outages without losing settings.
It had a sunset-sunrise option that allowed you to offset the sunset-sunrise times if you chose.
Modern practice is to run three conductor wire (hot, switched hot, neutral, and ground) to a switch. That way you have not and neutral at the switchbox for any future expansion.
Concur. I use such as my porch lights. It can be dark enough on one side of the house that one turns on but fading sunlight on the other precludes the need.
I live where it can sometimes be cloudy enough to resemble twilight hours before the real thing so having lights come on and off according to need beats using any sort of arbitrary timer.
LED bulb has been working for over five years in one from near zero to over 100 with no hassles, no need for wifi or programming of any sort.
They just work, which is usually the definition of the best tech.
