R44 blunt trauma injury! How do I fix this?

It has no BBROYGBVGW, I dunno how to read it.




Maybe this guy knows?

Or just stick a big wire in and hope for the best?


This one was in a case marked “Lepai” but I’m pretty sure it’s the same. There’s several other names & cases at various price points but prolly all the same board.

Wow, that guy didn’t use much more than the circuit board and the knobs. Thanks for the link!

“102” on a resistor means 1k ohms. You might need to use calipers to measure the size and figure out which SMT package it is.


Or he could (carefully!) drill through the circuit board traces and solder in a non-sm one.


May even be able to reuse those pads with a through hole resistor without drilling


Ah, bless you, @popobawa4u!

Yes, drilling for a 1K resistor is no challenge, assuming there’s nothing under it. Identifying that thing was the challenge… it’s like 1/16" long.

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I agree, though sourcing a 1k smt resistor might be harder than something more conventional. Soldering SMT without an smt workstation is also a pain, though you can always use a dab of a good conducting epoxy instead.

I found a website with a guide for the numbering, thanks to your tip. And I see that miking the part with an SAE micrometer will let me find out the current capacity. But the broken part is broken off short, so I guess I’ll have desolder the one next to it, and measure that. Does the color of the component mean anything at all?

This was easier back when you just had to memorize racist jingles and you could see components with the naked eye. Grumble grumble grumble… thanks again for the info!

They aren’t black?

These two are black. I’ve seen other equally tiny futuristic nodules that weren’t.

Interesting. Can you post a picture?

I don’t think so. The main variable is the resistance. Tolerances these days are usually within 1% of the nominal value. Power of little ones like this usually 1/8 Watt. Capacitance, temperature coefficient and other characteristics probably need to be measured.

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I’ve seen black, blue, green, yellow, brown (possibly intended to be yellow) and possibly red surface mount components on stuff I’ve worked with. I’ve been guessing that the yellow ones are caps since they usually have a number starting with C next to them on labeled boards.

Wow, those tiny color banded resistors are far out. I guess your best bet is to look at the component labeling on the board itself as well to know what kind of component it is. All those SMT components start to look alike after a while.

But yeah I don’t think the color really means much of anything – or at least nothing inferrable without the manufacturer’s data sheet.

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