I’m honestly not sure what the shock and surprise is. Is it because the code looks unreadable? Is it because there’s so much of it? There really isn’t that much, it’s just that they’ve put it all into the html page, to save the user from needing to download multiple files.
The entire thing is just 189 KB. The BoingBoing home page downloads 222 KB of javascript. It’s not magically smaller just because it’s hidden behind a bunch of one-line tags for jQuery and what-not.
Sure, we get to look at all the foreign code and say “Arghhh! It looks sinister, Google is tracking us!”, but Google is tracking us whether their front page looks like that or if it looks like
<html>
<head>
<script src="combined-google-scripts.js"></script>
</head>
<body>
<input></input>
<button>Search</button><button>I'm feeling lucky!</button>
</body>
</html>
That would contain all the same evil tracking code, but no one would think to mention it — except maybe to say how lovely and simple it is, even though it would be actually be a worse user experience.
The point of the XKCD comic wasn’t that it’s “all that code” – that’s the result of optimization.