these diamond stones are awesome for lapping your waterstones. there’s nothing better that i’ve found. for sharpening, the coarser two (if they’re similar to what i’ve used) are a bit unnecessarily aggressive, but they’re a hell of a lot better than the bottom of most coffee cups.
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[quote=“middlewaytao, post:16, topic:73990, full:true”]
Ive tried most ways but have come to prefer wet-dry sandpaper backed up with a piece of thicker glass.[/quote]
You can also use a sandpaper on a mousepad, to get a beveled edge instead of a flat edge. (Plus, it is a good new use for a mouse pad.)
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I agree with the comments about the superiority of belt grinders, but it is an investment and also there is a need to develop a technique. For most amateurs, the Spyderco sharpening kit is probably the easiest way to go. Add a two sided belt strop to that with white and green compounds and you will always have sharp knives with minimum experience needed.
Light touch and sharpen edge up, not down. That pushes heat away from the edge.
It is still a pretty quick way to ruin a blade.
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Yes, if you do it wrong, hence my comment that you have to develop the technique. If you are capable, it’s absolutely the easiest, fastest way to sharpen a blade. Surgi-Sharp makes stropping belts that will make any decent blade extremely sharp after using grinding belts. Still, your reluctance is understandable. If you aren’t familiar with the process, it will waste a lot of steel.
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I have been a journeyman machinist for 25 years and a mechanical engineer for 12. I have used a belt sanders before, I have made quite a few blades myself. A little to much heat on an edge can ruin the temper of a knife, that’s very easy to accomplish with a belt sander. If it is a cheap blade like a machete or such it doesn’t matter much, but for a fine knife or decent kitchen knife I wouldn’t recommend it.
Ok, pulling rank, eh? I’m a tool and cutter grinder. Have been for twenty years. So, the experience “claim” doesn’t hold. If you have the ability, which I possess, you are never going to ruin a blade’s temper. I agreed with you that a lack of technique is going to destroy the steel. I also recommended that for most people, the Spyderco system is the best option. It doesn’t produce any heat. Ok, I’m right there with you.
Still, for those of us with vast experience, NOT ANYONE OTHER THAN A PROFESSIONAL, belt grinding is superior. I can’t imagine anyone inexperienced not ruining an edge, but it is a mistake to dismiss belt grinding as disadvantageous.
Incidentally, I not only have twenty years as a tool and cutter grinder, I am “the” grinding department for a global manufacturer. I only say this because you got a bit smug. It’s ok, you were a machinist, and then an engineer (the enemy…it’s a joke, don’t get pissed off), you wouldn’t get it…(c’mon, you know tool and die guys. That’s how we “respect” each other).
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No, I was just pointing out that I am not just some guy with an opinion. Tool and cutter grinders are wet grinders, and made for controlled grinds on tool steel/carbide edges. That’s why I was saying I wouldn’t recommend it. Most people don’t have that skill level and its even risky with that skill level, you can get higher end variable speed belt grinders with water cooling, but most of people will just be using some low end woodworking hobby grade belt sander.
At first glance they seem similar, but imo they don’t really compare. I think the edge pro system is better in quite a few ways. To be fair though, they’re not really competitors anyway. They’re are not exactly in the same ball park price wise.
It is true though you can get basically the same result with just bench stones if you’re proficient at it, but it seems to take a lot of practice (and probably some ruined blades along the way).
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Oh for f**ck sake, just drop it. You have “some” knowledge, which is a “dangerous” thing. You obviously, by your statement have no idea what it means to be a tool and cutter grinder. There are tool and cutter grinder dedicated machines, some wet grind, some dry grind. A Tool And Cutter Grinder is the person/expert that builds/rebuilds professional edges and this person uses a variety of techniques that you, most likely, have no experience of. It’s fine. I can’t be trusted to beat a quote using a Bridgeport or a machining center. I get it that I don’t have standing to make all encompassing claims on every aspect of metal working. You really shouldn’t make blanket statements about areas that are vague to you. Knives are, for the most part, belt ground. Knives, when sent to a pro for resharpening, are belt ground. It isn’t even that difficult. It is out of your ken. That’s ok, just stop being so stodgy. Or don’t, what do I care? This is a ridiculous discussion. I just thought that I would throw my two cents in for people who want some decent kitchen knives. Spend hours on wet stones if you want. Use the sidewalk for all I care.
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I was taught tool and cutter grinding as part of my apprenticeship…
Jason - do you use these stones? It looks like they are much smaller than the ones shown in the video.
here, I got the last word, ok?
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These are smaller than the ones in the video. Around 2 3/4 inches x slightly less than 1 inch?
Yes, I was wondering if you’ve successfully used these smaller ones for sharpening, say, a chef’s knife. I am concerned I might have trouble using them because of the small size. Thanks.
You do realize we’re discussing the sharpening of kitchen knives by non-professionals, right? Most of us don’t have knowledge of or access to the variety of techniques and appliances available to professionals.
I’ve heard of a knife fight, but not a knife sharpening fight…
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I’m rather surprised. You hang out on the bOings. Shall we discuss gun cleaning and see where that goes? Or do either of us have an axe to grind?
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So will two bucks at Chef’s warehouse.
Ten years later, you can cry.
