That you know of.
I’m not saying you are wrong, but food poisoning can be sub clinical or misdiagnosed. So it is possible for people to get food poisoning and for you never to hear about it.
Nothing much to see, actually. (Yet, at least.) Sometimes there’s a multimeter on the table, with probe in the oven or in the pot. (Todo: add wireless data relaying.) Sometimes it is an infrared thermometer, for touchless sensing. That’s about it (so far). Curves-drawing dataloggers aren’t implemented yet (though that’s as easy as attaching the meters to a laptop and adding some scripting, but there aren’t enough round tuits for that yet and I cook rather rarely).
A nice add-on would be a thermal vision eye-clip. Maybe something that’d look like an illicit offspring of a night Google Glass spent with FLIR Lepton?
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See? SEE?
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Nothing to see, move along! 
I hear you, and I’m sure that’s true in many cases, but in this particular case (it was a private estate, so we were dealing with a small and known group of people who were never individually alone) there was no way to hide if you were feeling even slightly out of sorts. No en suite bathrooms, for example.
I’m probably going to regret asking this, but why do you need a curves-drawing datalogger in a kitchen? Are you planning on keeping track of ALL variables, including exact (to the micro-gram) weight, fat-to-protein ratio, ambient temperature, humidity, etc.?
edited to add: I owned a round tuit when I was a teenager. It was a black rubber squeeze coin holder with “tuit” printed on it. Sort of like the following, but round:
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The datalogger is not That Much Important, but could bring some light to the thermal transfer issues in the foods (surface vs core temperature of the “workpiece” in the oven, for example). Given how much of importance relative to other variables goes to the thermal processing, this is the best yield for the effort.
The other variables are either much more difficult to measure (though some could be acquired by e.g. selective staining and optical microscopy), or don’t have that high importance. Weight down to microgram is a bit of overkill, given the hygroscopic (or moisture-losing) nature of materials, and given the rather wide variability of feedstocks (even in food industry no two shipments of flour are exactly the same); low single percents in mass accuracy should be by far enough.
The acquired/logged data are of use both as a partial substitution for experience, and as a debugging aid to figure out what went wrong and why the souffle that went okay in attempts 3, 4, and 5 was suddenly so miserably collapsed at attempt 6.
Then there’s the benefit of unification of instrumentation between the kitchen and the lab (and the eventual process plant), as the same hardware/software can be used “multi-mission”. A test run of the equipment is a test run, whether it is supervising a thermal treatment of a steel workpiece or a sheet of cookies. Even the thermocouple can be the same K-type kind here. (The lower temperatures encountered in cooking could allow even use of the more accurate, perhaps overkill-accurate though, Pt-100 resistive sensors.)
(Edit: You cannot solder the Pt-100 ones as the high temperatures would melt the joints, but using thin brass or silver wire, some borax, and that kind of cigarette lighter that makes that hot, difficult-to-blow-off, well-premixed blue flame, you can braze the joint with ease.)
I made myself some, a year ago, by successive laser engraving and cutting as a test of the K40, but they don’t seem to be in sufficient quantity. 
http://shaddack.twibright.com/2014-02-16-RoundTuits/
(On a side note, acrylic cuts very well with a CO2 laser. If it gets spray-painted black, the paint can be engraved through for interesting signs (and can be color-painted over the cuts, for color signs). But cut it from the non-painted side, as the paint will burn in the beam and make a cloud of oily smoke and contaminate the surface and the flame it makes absorbs enough of beam energy to not cut through. (No air-assist yet.) The same painted sheet, cut from the other side, will have all those ugly effects on the bottom side instead, where they don’t matter. The flipping operation will benefit from some sort of a jig to do the alignment properly. An U-shaped cut in a piece of MDF board or a plywood or whatever, with known width, will do the job here; align the workpiece to the left or right edge depending on which side you operate.)
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That would be useful in my house, but I never seem to be able to get one.
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