Never used that, & while I am not one to allow a brand to carry too much in my buying, I can honestly say 3M has never disappointed me, they are serious about their standards & technology.
I guess even that shows through in their marketing.
Look at it, despite being for automobiles, there are no pictures of race cars, scantily clad women, vicious animals, cartoon characters, no text wrangling or bright colours drawing the eye away from one part of the package to another. They are marketing an industrial adhesive, to me!
You’re masking off all bits of paint you don’t want the glue to mess up, right? The 3x foaming of gorilla glue is sometimes a blessing, sometimes a curse.
It was a total disaster. Friend was told it was THE WAY to go. Gorilla glue foamed all over the tank and over the blue tape. It did not stick to the knee pads at all. They peeled off with the blue tape.
Yup, this or the 8008 in black will do the job. Follow the directions (both surfaces tacky, then bond) and it’s stuck permanently. They are NOT KIDDING about the good ventilation bit!
I don’t know anything about this. Fortunately, @necoro seems to.
I would suggest being careful about using any ‘glue’ type adhesive between two dissimilar materials unless the ‘glue’ remains pliable over time. If it doesn’t, the differing rates of thermal expansion are going to cause it to fail at some point. This stuff may do that, as I said, I don’t know anything about it.
One thing that I would recommend is an outdoor rated (most of them) 3M VHB tape. It’s compliant, stable over a wide temperature range, resistant to many solvents, ages very gracefully, and sticks like nobodys business. For this relatively non-demanding application, you probably don’t need to worry much about matching the specific adhesive to the types of surfaces you have–glass, painted, metal, powder coated, etc. are all different and need different types of adhesive.
Good luck and share photos!
you could have a go at sticking an emblem-like object to a tank-like object with it, first. Science!
It’s highly flammable, so that’s encouraging.
I look forward to seeing the new BoingBoing MRAP.
well played, sir.
I use E6000, dries clear, holds better than the paint. I haven’t used the 3M stuff.
Why do you need to glue yours on? Doesn’t seem right. Is that how they were affixed originally from the factory?
I have a '51 R25/2. The roundels screw on to the tank, and the knee pads fit over flanged sheet metal lips which are spot welded to the tank, no need for glue.
I second this recommendation for the 3M double-stick tape, which adheres strongly to practically anything nonporous, and is very easy to use. I’ve used this on several occasions for automotive badges and weatherstripping. However, it is also thick, which is an issue if you mind a visible gap when affixing your parts. You can avoid the gap by trimming the tape right at the the contours of your badge &tc, but then the edge of the tape is visible at the side. It also grips immediately, which means you have to position the item correctly before applying even an iota of pressure.
oh no 
sorry. It’ll all be worth it, though!!
Not sure of automotive application, but I use ct1 whenever I need a serious bond. The stuff will glue bricks to anvils underwater, yet retains flexibility.
Remember though, any bond will only be as strong as the paint bond to the metal. That’s where detatchment is likely. You may want to sand and white-spirit the section you want to glue to first.
FWIW: I recently purchased some 3M product that is specifically intended to be used for attaching trim (to replace a roundel on my wife’s old car) – after trolling various forums, this seemed to be well recommended (I still haven’t used it) 3M 03601 Plastic Emblem and Trim Adhesive: Automotive
the other product that I saw equally recommended was some 3M tape: 3M 03609 Scotch-Mount 1/2" x 5’ Molding Tape: Automotive
Rack 'em, this thread is closed.
This is the Boing Boing BBS, we test shit in the big lab.
