You mean Tesla support didn’t tell them about the door release after they came the first time?
The secondary battery is the one that controls the doors…Not a second visit.
- Their primary battery started losing range.
- Their secondary battery that controls the doors failed.
Every time I look at this article, my mind sees the headline as “Another woman trapped in a Tesla dies.”
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Oh, then the secret door unlock switch is useless when both batteries die? Why bother having it at all, then? Is it just for cases when you are unable to unlock the door via the keyfob or app (assuming at least one battery is still working)?
Not having a physical way of escaping seems criminally negligent.
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(/me looks at preceeding 145 posts in the thread)
Well, yes. That’s the point.
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The physical emergency release still works when the batteries are dead. The issue is that the emergency release is non-obvious.
Square = button for openi g the door
Circle = emergency release
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You and me both.
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NGL this picture relieved some anxiety for me like next time I’m in a Tesla I’ll know where to look…
my monkey instincts in these situations tell me to push all the pushable buttons in a variety of sequences and hope.
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The electric door latch is useless when the 12V battery dies. It doesn’t matter if the HV battery has energy if the 12V is dead (if the car is off).
The problem for being inside and the battery dead is if the mechanical latch needs a different movement to actuate (assuming there even is a mechanical latch) instead of being the same motion, but repeated, or harder.
And for being outside is that the handle retracts into the car, so is not manipulatable, and the door can’t be unlatched, even if the door is unlocked.
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Correct for the more expensive model S and X, for the more popular 3 and Y the outside handle is flush with the car until someone plushies on the wide section with pushes the narrow section to where you can grab it with your other hand if you started the transaction with the “correct” hand, or your thumb and have a big enough hand.
However on the 3/Y that only actuates an electric request to open the door so you can’t open it anyway.
I do wonder why they can’t bypass the 12V battery if the HV still has power and the car already actuated the contractors to connect to the HV so you already have a ton of 12V power available via the high voltage to low voltage converter.
Maybe they just didn’t want to think about what to do in the UX to tell you “next time you stop the car you are REALLY stopping the car”Seems reasonable for a launch product, but not for one that has been “refined” for a decade or more.
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It does in fact do that, because the 12V converter is just in parallel across the battery and then the rest of the 12V loads. This is why “jumping” EVs works: supply power to the 12V, then turn the car on, and it’ll supply 12V power to itself until you turn the car off.
You do of course, need to be able to get to the jump points to supply 12V power. Which is a catch-22, but regular car manufacturers are known to screw that up too: Porsche Boxsters need power to open the hood to be able to replace the 12V.
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