That was interesting, but it left me with a question:
They were comparing a “Haiku” fan running forward, with a paddle fan running in reverse, if I read it right?
Why not compare a paddle fan running forward, with the same paddle fan running in reverse?
The study appears to have been funded by the makers of the “Haiku” fan. Which is fine for people who are in the market for a new fan, and might consider buying a “Haiku” fan—I have no problem with that.
But it would be helpful to also answer the question of people who already own a paddle fan and simply want to know “Should I run the fan that I already own, forwards or backwards?” But that would be a different study, I guess?
(Tell me if I’m reading the study wrong.)
1 Like
One time I was reading about Murder, She Wrote being filmed in Northern California, and I briefly thought “that doesn’t make sense, the ocean would be on the wrong side”. I had to think about it for longer than you might imagine.
Or, like: in Australia, does the moon appear upside down? Without looking it up, it’s surprisingly tricky to reason about.
2 Likes
I suppose it’s possible, but I doubt it. It doesn’t sound to me like something that would really benefit from standardization.
I would find it plausible that there is an industry convention, but it’s doubtful that every single fan in the world being manufactured today adheres to that convention.
3 Likes
Exactly why I keep a cheat sheet inside the thermostat cover!
9 Likes
Oblig:
7 Likes
I’ll share my own data point, then. I’m 33 and haven’t lived anywhere that had even one ceiling fan since I turned 4. When I’m anywhere I don’t live, I’m not the one in control of any fans.
2 Likes
You are giving good advice, but don’t you mean “vertical wall”?
5 Likes
A similar idea exists in Jersey barriers (K-rails) :
Hollow polyethylene barriers have been developed for short-term applications where portability is important. These plastic barriers are normally filled with water after placement on-site to provide a moderate level of crash protection, then emptied prior to removal.
The most common concrete jersey barricade size used is: 10 ft Long x 24 in Wide x 32 in High and weigh approximately 4,000 lbs.
vs
31" High X 24" Wide X 120" Long Plastic Jersey Barrier
Weight: Empty 155 lbs
[Yeah, sorry, I know it’s off-topic from the discussion of ceiling fan direction. But we’re Happy Mutants! Everything relates somehow to everything else 
]
3 Likes
Ha! Well, I guess that all depends on your perspective.
JK, yes, that’s what I meant. Thanks. 
3 Likes
Indeed!
My question for the physicists out there: if I have an ordinary dehumidifier running in the house too, does that “boost” the efficiency of the AC system or is it a wash?
4 Likes
While I am not a physicist, the answer you are looking for is in a psychometric chart.
They aren’t the easiest thing to read or understand, but the simplied version of how you AC works is this. The dew point (and thus percentage humidity) is basically the point where water will be forced out of air to make it any colder. The air has become saturated, it essentially feels like a cold humid fall morning. As the AC drives the temp lower water is condensed out, all the while maintaining a saturated point. As the air travels out of the system and warms the percent humidity drops. This gives you cool more comfortable air.
Standard home air conditioning systems are like dehumidifiers where the hot side is dumped external to the home. What I mean by this is the air exiting the vent is not always conditioned to a specific temp and humidity. I have worked places that have had environmental conditioned rooms for product aging, 80F @ 30%RH or 70F @ 50%RH. The air feels different because it is detacted from the external environment.
To answer your question, probably a wash but maybe. In a decently insulated home or room the excess heat from the dehumidifier is going to have to be dealt with by the AC, so a wash. In a situation where you have high humidity but less of a temperature variance (below ground basement perhaps) the AC won’t run enough to properly dehumidify the area. The excess heat from the dehumidifier is easier for the AC to deal with than the excess humidity. Either way will use more energy, but the basement will feel more comfortable.
Edit to say this: If your room humidity is much above 50% with the AC running it would help your comfort level. This shouldn’t happen in a properly built home, but older retrofitted homes or a poorly working AC system may allow this. In NC we run into times of the year where the early morning temp is cold enough to prevent the AC from kicking on and this makes the house feel muggy.
5 Likes
Was typing a long winded response when @bcsizemo posted. He is for the most part correct, and hit all the right points.
You need a dehumidifier when you need to remove moisture but not cool the space. In a damp basement a dehumidifier will run until it reaches a desired humidity level. An air conditioner would over cool the space well before it removes enough moisture.
The problem with a dehumidifiers is the mechanical heat created by the compressor and fans is added back to the room. This is an increase in total heat of about 25%. If you need cooling and dehumidification an A/C is more efficient. In an A/C you still have the mechanical heat created by the compressor,but it is released outdoors.
Take this from a guy who has two sling psychrometers on my truck.
6 Likes
okay… well I’m still a fan of…
1 Like
Marketing-wise, they definitely were smart to change their name from “HVLS Fan Company” (high volume low speed) 
Big Ass fans sure have a price to match their name—though they do get good reviews, it seems.
In contrast, here’s the kind of fan I have (though mine isn’t from Big Grass) and I paid exactly $5.00 for it too :
3 Likes
I concur; I’m originally from Ohio, so the complete lack of insulation was quite an unexpected reality.
2 Likes
I now know less than when I started 
This topic was automatically closed after 5 days. New replies are no longer allowed.
