Think about what Coca-Cola does to the gastric lining, let alone rust. On the other hand its cheaper than Midleton, which I’m sure you wouldn’t pour on the tools.
I don’t have to steal bottles of Coca-Cola from my father, like I do with Midleton.
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OH NOES!
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So, uhm - what’s happening with the XKE?
Also Flitz if you can’t locate simichrome.
This brings to mind an interesting possibility. Since stomach acids are far stronger than the concentrations found in Coca Cola perhaps Jason could simply vomit on his tools before beginning the rub down. Come to think of it I believe flies do something like this.
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So, I assume that it’s probably the phosphoric acid? Why not just use a product like CLR?
A bit more concentrated than coke, and as other have noted, less syrupy.
Also, muriatic acid from the pool section of the hardware store.
None of these is strong enough to damage the steel quickly, but you’ll definitely have to monitor parts soaking in them, not to mention neutralize the acid afterwards with a baking soda water bath.
Also, for others not working on vehicle parts, don’t try this with anything galvanized. Zinc + acid = wow!
I would also prefer not to waste the Midleton in this manner.
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As far as I’m aware the ph/cleaning power of coke (which are closely connected) come entirely from the carbonation. So anything you can clean with coke, especially those tips from internet listacles, you’re probably better off using club soda/seltzer. Less sugar to leave things sticky, and it cleans just as well if not better than coke. I bartend and behind the bar soda from the gun system is one of our primary cleaners (along with no rise sanitizer). I use it anywhere things get sticky; and to clean off my metal shakers, spoons, and other tools. Longer soaks in a cup or bucket of soda can remove residue and tarnish from the internal bits of tap systems, soda guns, and other mechanical bits behind the bar. Its seems there’s two things going on. Its acidic, and the bubbles provide some necessary agitation. Fresh soda from a fountain/gun system or one of those soda makers seems to work better than the bottled kind, presumably because its often more aggressively carbonated. Unfortunately it won’t clean heavy tarnish/residue, rust or what can best be called “bio-film”. So for that we use bar detergent like Barkeeper’s Friend (no really), or metal polishes like Brasso.
In terms of the remaining rust on the tools you should consider doing something about it. The pitting and damage to the finish will just lead to more and faster damage down the line (especially in a salty coastal area). You’ll probably have to resort of fine sandpaper, steel wool, or abrasive on a buffing wheel, or even a wire brush. It’s gonna remove the chrome/coating/finish if there is one which will fuck the collector value (if cleaning them already didn’t) if there is any (or you care). You can try to focus very specifically on the damaged areas but your gonna lose at least some of the finish. Presumable you could have the tools re-chromed (or chromed if they aren’t) if you want to strip off the finish entirely, but that seems pointlessly expensive if you aren’t trying to restore them. You might be better off just buffing them to a good polish using some fine abrasive and a buffing wheel on grinder. The finer grit you polish to, the less rust prone things are supposed to be. If you oil them occasionally after they should remain rust free. Both my grandfathers were mechanics, and both swore by used motor oil to keep their tools rust free. The one grandfather used to soak his sockets in old oil before cleaning them. I just use vegetable oil, but I’m mostly dealing with knives and the occasional axe or what have.
I’ve also heard good things about various “bluing” solutions. Apparently its meant to patch up the finish on fire-arms, so its not as durable as real bluing or as rust resistant. But I’ve heard its adequate for certain cutting edges like kitchen knives, straight razors, and splitting tools if cared for. Might work to cover the pitting that you’ve got, or completely replace the finish if you buff everything down. There seem to be a couple types of this stuff. Some of them seem to coat the metal with a thicker more black coating, others are just thin acid based solution that react with the metal to create the coating. I don’t have links for you unfortunately as I don’t know much about it. Anyone know more about this stuff (or related products I might have seen mis-labeled as bluing)?
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I love those for taking superficial rust off my kitchen knifes, but they won’t deal with aggressive rust and pitting very well
You can also just buy phosphoric acid, usually under the generic name “Rust converter”. It’s not strong enough to dissolve tools, but it does a grand job on rust. Just be sure to wear gloves, it’s not great to get on your skin.
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make sure you wash the coke off very very well, it will continue eating. As a vintage bike and vintage tool enthusiast, i beg you, wash, then neutralize. a nice LIGHT coating of WD-40, or even better? Max™ Super Lubricant. My gun shop guy recommended this instead of branded “gun oils” it works great on firearms, tools, motorcycle bits. http://www.getsprays.net/lubricants/max-4026-super-lubricating-oil-11-oz-free-shipping/
and second for Simichrome, i know guys at 4 resto shops that swear by it for final cleaning and polishing
nice looking airhead BTW. recently sold my conversion-outfit…
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Evapo-Rust has a close cousin, Metal Rescue, which is cheaper and more readily available where I am.
They seem to be roughly equivalent in quality, though Metal Rescue ate the chrome off of a set of old washer jets I put in it a few weeks ago that Evapo-Rust didn’t touch. Based on that one experience, I’m going to continue buying Evapo-Rust once the Metal Rescue is used up.
Both are fantastic, and safely reusable (Evapo-Rust even goes so far as to say once it’s “used up” by becoming pitch black, you can pour it on your lawn as an iron-rich fertilizer!)
I’m glad you didn’t do it while watching porn, because that would have been so wrong.
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No, the pH is low because coke includes phosphoric acid- it’s listed in the ingredients.
My favourite rust remover is oxalic acid. This is also the main ingredient of ‘Barkeeper’s Friend’. It’s easily available as a solid, which is rather more convenient than liquid rust removers.
EDTA is supposedly quite good too, though I’ve never tried it.
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From my understanding in previous readings, the carbonic acid is the acid doing the work, not the phosphoric.
Apparently coke has a pH of about 2.5, and typical carbonated water has a pH of about 3.4- meaning that coke is roughly ten times more acidic than carbonated water.
One could test this by comparing the pH of fizzy and flat coke.
If it were the carbonic acid doing the work, then sparkling water would be just as effective for cleaning.
No - it wasn’t porn. Uh - yeah, no. Of course not. It was mostly South Park.
Sir, if you’d just leave your contact information, I have a wonderful array of homeopathic remedies which might be of great utility to you and your loved ones.
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Diet cola is a good general purpose cleaning solvent, and it leaves no sticky scum behind. It’s almost magical, really. Sugary soda is a bad idea unless you like the idea of ants cleaning up the cleaning solution later on or you’re going to use yet a second round of cleaner to clean up the first.
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