Over the past several years, I’ve taken an interest in watches. I don’t know a ton, but I can at least speak as a casual hobbyist.
Today the BB Shop has added a kinda handsome skeleton-dial watch with a post on the site, a “Heritor Ryder”. they no longer enable comments on shop posts, so I made this thread after checking it out with the resources I knew to check.
First off: I do not consider this watch to be a rip-off at the BB Shop price of $150 US.
BUT, I do not believe you are given a very good overview of the pros and cons of this watch in its post.
For me, the biggest red flag is that this model is GIGANTIC. now, if you’re into the current oversized watch trend, hey, go for it. but if you’re looking for a watch that wears in traditional-ish proportions, you’d better have a wrist like Schwarzenegger.
The case dimensions of a Heritor Ryder are 44mm wide (which BB lists) and 13mm thick (which it does not.) to give you an idea of what this actually looks like, I took some pictures. Here is my watch on my wrist. the case diameter is 37.5mm. My wrist is an under-male-average 6.5 inch/16.5 cm circumference, with a width shown at just over 2 inch or about exactly 5.5 cm.
[NOTE: my camera lens is distorting these macro shots, which appear a bit larger than life. but it is distorting my watch just as much as the bottle cap, so the comparison is equal]
now here’s a bottle cap that’s 45mm wide and 12mm thick, very close to the Heritor Ryder’s proportions.
also note that my strap is 18mm whereas the Ryder’s is 22, so it will be in proportion to its overall dimensions and not so thin looking like my strap looks against the bottle cap.
Now, on to value. Being a company I’d never heard of was only a little unusual, but in combination with the listing not identifying the movement used, it became another red flag. I found a forum post by a member of the NAWCC who has ID’d Heritor watches as using Miyota 8215 movements. Over on Caliber Corner, the Miyota 8215 is described as a well-known and established “workhorse” movement that costs around 50 bucks US and has an accuracy of -20 ~ +40 seconds-per-day. which is fair for this non-luxury automatic movement designed in 1977 by Citizen that today costs $40-50 (and that’s singly, Heritor is getting a bulk rate below that.) But it is by no means anything to write home about. In other words, Heritor claims a ridiculous MSRP so that the sale price seems awesome. The BB price is about right for this stainless steel Ryder with its Miyota, 50M water resistance, a fun display back, mineral glass (called “sapphire coated” but this is not a thing AFAIK and in any event I would not expect it to be anything good) and a “genuine” (i.e. not full-grain i.e. compressed scraps) leather band.
You are made to believe that the Heritor Ryder is a luxury product that is clearance priced on BB. It is not.
If you’re OK with the size, adjusting the time a few minutes on your day off, and like the looks; I say go for it. IMO, this is actually a nice looking skeleton dial, which aside from the cool factor tend to be ugly, or leaning too much on the flagging steampunk aesthetic, and usually both. Also, the indices on them tend to be missing for some reason, or are often inadequately visible against the busy skeleton. the Ryder avoids all this admirably. but damn the beast is big.