Could be different types of autobelay in play as well.
Awesome, in the truest sense of the word.
Spiderman, Spiderman…
They did a great job photoshopping out the jet pack that she must have been wearing 
That was an absolutely gravity-defying display of climbing prowess. Bravo!!
the auto belay doesn’t hold them at all, it only slows you down when falling. they are moving waaaay too quickly in the wrong direction for it to impact their performance.
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The line Dan Osman runs up is centre left in the grey rock. It’s really fun and easy.
Here is an update to that old classic: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mi4iR4clDGs
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I mentioned this upthread, that it feels like it is helping a bit, but I can’t quite put my finger on it (and have more time to research now).
Thread here:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/auto_belays-_how_much_weight_do_they_pull-477878
I guess there is 2 different types, and I’d wager most of my climbing was on the non-magnetic type FWIW:
https://headrushtech.com/blogs/how-auto-belays-work/
I agree with what the guy says that it “feels” like it gives you a bit of a boost. You can jump higher, pull easier than with a manual belay. Feels like more than ~11 pounds to me (more like 20).
The last commenter in the thread nails what I couldn’t quite put my finger on:
“A good way to test is it get a rucksack and clip it into the auto belay, add weights until it can’t lift it off the floor any more. You then have a ruff idea of how much it is pulling.”
OH YEAH RIGHT I REMEMBER NOW, they zing all the way back up pretty fast if they aren’t clipped to something. So there is definitely some upward forces involved which would benefit a speed climber. I guess there is minimum weight ratings, since I have seen small kids get stuck. Now that I think about it, I’ve also seen small kids climb a wall using just their hands…
Might be more a feature of the non-magnetic kind. Haven’t found that info yet.
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