Momofuku chef declares war on backyard grills — they're a "marketing lie" for cooking burgers

Originally published at: Momofuku chef declares war on backyard grills — they're a "marketing lie" for cooking burgers | Boing Boing

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“A backyard burger is an experience that you try to convince yourself is better than it actually is, It’s the nostalgia, it’s the smells, it’s your friends. But if you actually take it out of the context, it’s not that good.”

You know what? I’ll take it, you pretentious f*©¢!

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I actually agree with Chang. A flat top (or in my case a cast iron skillet) burger is better.
TBH, 9 times out of ten, a steak is better that way as well and is how I generally make it.
Sometimes, I’ll use my Weber for steak if they are very thick, but mostly indirect heat.
That being said - if you need to make a bunch of burgers, unless you have a large griddle to use, it’s easier to use your Weber.

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He’s entitled to his opinion.

But as for getting the majority of BBQ-loving Americans on board with that sentiment?

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He is out of his mind.

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Dave, if you read this. In one of the episodes of Ugly Delicious, you lauded chicken yakitori grilled over binchotan. Grilling burgers on the backyard Weber isn’t just burning meat. Done right and with care, it’s both sublime and prehistoric. I’ve had better, tastier burgers off the grill compared to the griddle.

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Based on what I’ve seen, David Chang is a lot of things, but pretentious is not one of them.

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See, this is where I think he’s not entirely wrong, and neither are you.

That’s the key phrase. By and large, it’s not going to be. I know I don’t trust myself to make burgers right.

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Yeah, obviously taste is subjective and some (most?) might actually prefer a grill, but most burgers I’ve had on a grill suck. The balance of fat, searing and proper temp are well beyond the skills of most home cooks (sorry dads, you’re usually not great grill cooks despite what the apron says). Whether it can be officially declared “better” or not, the reality is that a griddle wins 90% of the time for most cooks.

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Indeed, surely context is key. The burger is a means to an end. Having said that, a griddle is probably a better way to cool the patties. Maybe, outdoor griddles are the way to go. That opens up the opportunity to have an egg on your burger. :drooling_face:

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I suppose that doing burgers right detracts from the time available for drinking and talking :+1:

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And since I know there are people here in San Diego, a dirty flat top is the best evar ;).

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Oh and Momofuko in DC, meh. eta: It’s permanently closed. Oh well…

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Yep, I’m one of them.
Their burger is amazing.

*Edit - and their location on 30th makes a pretty solid pizza, IMO.

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Part of the experience is in the communal cooking, thank you very much. Standing around cooking burgers and drinking beer is part of what makes grilling burgers great. Can I get a more precise burger on a griddle? Probably. But I’m not plating food for a customer. I’m living a life over here.

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Is using a gas grill a somewhat middle ground here?

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uhm… “no clean up”!?

The success rate of the griddle is better than the grill, and also there’s no clean up, you have nothing to worry about.

long-ago plongeur here… and there bloody well is grill clean up! (ofttimes hot and scrapy nasty clean-up)

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Blockquote and also there’s no clean up,

Come on chef, you never bricked a grill and butnt the fuck out of your hand at least once in your career?
The rest is true it is better but o clean up? give me a break

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That’s why, when it comes to grilling, I’m more of a hot dog kind of guy.

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He ain’t wrong. The temperature is uncontrolled, the juice drains right out, there’s fire, etc.
Not about to ban backyard grills, but I’m cooking my best burgers now in a pan. My big secret: a cheapie meat thermometer keeps me from overcooking.

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I’ve got nothing wrong with cooking burgers on a griddle, or in a pan or whatever, but as others have mentioned it’s not just about efficiency it’s about the experience. Its not the destination, It’s the journey.

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