Food reviews with real love

I love it when food critics get the knives out.
“The bankiness of the site lingers, the wines are badly chosen and laughably priced and much of the food is disappointing.”
http://www.standard.co.uk/goingout/restaurants/fay-maschler-reviews-one-kensington-9248054.html

definition please?

Apparently this particular place is in an old bank, and the suggestion might be to replace the b with a w.

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