Originally published at: https://boingboing.net/2024/03/28/rock-climbers-rebel-against-restrictions-on-trans-athletes.html
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I think it’s worth noting that this only applies to certain levels of competition - much like other Olympic sports. I’m not sure this policy is any different from swimming, track etc.
To be clear I’m not defending the policy. What’s really cool about comp climbing (talking the lead and boulder events - not speed) is that the gap between men and women is drawing closer together likely faster than any other sport.
Climbers like Janja Garnbret would give most of the men’s field a good run for their money. But she’s still an anomaly.
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An outlier, perhaps - anomaly, less so.
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To me, that’s the only reason to even consider it: for the safety of the athlete. Anyone in transition needs hormone therapy that is otherwise banned as performance enhancing. I feel the intention should not be to ban from competing as much as it should be to recognize that medicine is more important than competition. So yeah, it should only be an issue where it could run afoul of doping regulations.
There really is no reason to worry about the gender of an athlete, really. Rules about doping are all that matters, and even then it should be about protecting the athlete more than fairness.
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