yeah, mine is a 312 which, when you look up the old catalog, the _12 series was marketed to triatheletes and racers, the 312 being the base model. But the fork has huge rake on it, there’s all the mounting eyelets, looks like there’s a bridge to mount a kickstand. The wiki page calls the 12 series “sport-tourers” which seems more accurate. the gearing is the “sport” part, I guess.
When I went to replace the cables, I also took off the housings, stem/bar, and wheels to attack some bad rust on the lugs and re-prime and paint those bits (touch-up paint for a Toyota Corolla was a perfect match.) The crank, derailleurs, and brakes were still on, but I could still feel that the frame was shockingly light. And it held up to some asshole running me over, too. so like I said, a gem. like you said, built to last. a lucky find at that price and in an unusual size–the largest offered. Once I build up enough credit at my job to ask off, I’ll be doing some touring.
Really interesting that they used steel with air-hardening characteristics in a lugged/brazed frame. Normally you try to keep the heat-affected zone smaller in those instances, as I understand it - which suggests that 853 is intended for TiG.
And I see - the silver rod was needed because brass rod doesn’t wet stainless steels.
853 is totally intended for TIG- but that clearly doesn’t mean it can’t be brazed. Indeed, the only requirement is that you heat it enough, and brass brazing does that just fine.
It’s a neat bike- the lugs are super unusual, the tubeset’s a slightly odd mix, and the fit is just for me.
It’s also a hoot to ride.
The pedals are mostly-plastic junk (outside of one steel cage arrived bent to snot) so they’ll get replaced first. (also the rear brake pads were swapped, but I won’t hold that against anyone in particular)
Now I just wish it wasn’t over 80 degrees this week. (in my defense- northwest native)
Tried those once, would not recommend. Don’t need or want my pedals to fold, though I did see a gnarly set at the store that appeared to be machined out of two solid blocks of metal. (well, four for both sides)
I’m replacing my rear brake cable. (Just the cable, not the housing.) My LBS has a choice of three materials, all Bontrager brand: black teflon, stainless steel, and zinc-coated. Should I prefer one over the other?
The reason I’m replacing it is that it’s mashed and deformed from the brake cable anchor bolt (that clamps the cable to the brake at the wheel). I pulled the cable out of the brake and noodle, and now that it’s out I can’t pull it back through the noodle without scraping along the inside of the plastic or whatever liner. I’d rather just replace the cable.
Is it usual for the anchor bolt to do that to the cable? Or was it too tight? Or just an inferior cable?
Given the choice, I'd go with exactly the order that you've presented them, with the Teflon coated one as my far and way first choice. The others will work but they will need to be greased and are susceptible to corrosion, especially the zinc coated one. The Teflon coated one, however is less prone to corrosion and will operate better over time. The anchor cable was probably too tight. It happens. But cables are cheap.
Depends, what's the use for this bike? I'd go with the stainless as an all around good cable. The teflon is a pain because you have to scratch it off where the anchor goes to get it not to slip. Cables will last a long time if the bike is not left in the rain. If it IS left in the rain, you'll soon have more problems than just your cable rusting.
I've used zinc-coated slick cables for a couple of decades. I use them because I prefer to solder the cut ends. I've never experienced any corrosion or rusting.
I've never found the need to remove the Teflon from the cable at the anchor point. It's not that slick. It is slick along the length where it rubs in the cable housing. Paired with a housing with an inner liner, you never have to worry about sticky cables.
It sounds like I can’t go wrong no matter what I pick.
‘24th’ on that bike is probably 44/11, and he’s using that to do about 30ks. He’s gonna bust his knees open and wear out his drivetrain. He should be spinning like 34/13.
At least, if he’s going to be spending all of his time on pavement, he should throw some slicks on those wheels. Something like the Schwalbe Kojak will provide much better rolling on pavement. That being said, they’re NOT suitable for mud, sand, or gravel.
This is a huge topic in open space access and transportation as electric tech becomes cheaper. We had distinct laws that applied to distinct modes.
As we invent new modes that hybridize or revolutionize the old categories of transportation our existing rules sets don’t work well but are still applied.
I just got my bike running and up to pressure. Man, I forgot how it feels to ride. It’s such an amazing feeling. I’m just going to take it into a bike shop and have them make sure it’s running right. There’s one near campus. I need the pedals replaced, too. I have a weird clip/flat pedal hybrid. I just want to get a toe cage, or whatever you call it, instead. I remember the first time I went out riding with the clips and the shoes and I started to teeter as I came to a stop. I’m no good at trackstands, so in the middle of the road, I slowly, and tragically just fell over to one side as I desperately kept trying the maneuver that would release me.
In any case, I thought this thread could use a music video;
One day it’ll just happen. It’s the kind of thing you can’t really practice until you can do it, but eventually all the trying lets you do it enough to really nail it. Camber on the road helps a lot.
Look for a small gentle uphill. Chocolate foot forward, front wheel turned into the hill. Stand on the pedals.
Then it’s like balancing on the clutch of a manual transmission. Bike moves forward a couple inches, then you let it roll back a couple of inches. Back, forth, back, forth.
Once you can do it on the hill, the front brake can create the bounce back you need to roll the bike backwards.
You’ll get it.
It’s official. I’m horrendously out of shape. I used to be able to bike to work and back and barely break a sweat. Now I need to take numerous breaks to make it half that distance. As for breaking a sweat? Noah called, he wants to know if they really need that ark in Kansas. It didn’t help that I had to lug a 50 lbs pack, but I used to be able to manage it. Tomorrow is another day, and I’ll make sure it’s a lighter day, too.This month’s commute is gonna be hell.
