I ran a simple test myself a few years ago, using a flashlight aimed at a photocell and software that emulated a strip chart recorder. IKEA batteries lasted about 85% as long as Duracells, which given the price difference made the IKEAs the clear winner for my purposes.
Note however that this was back when IKEAs were made in Germany by Varta. They later switched to a Chinese manufacturer. I’ve used them since, and they still seem fine, and amazingly cheap.
I’ve almost completely switched to low-self-discharge rechargeables, and again I’ve been happy with IKEA. Their LADDA AA and AAA cells used to say “Made in China”, but now they say “Made in Japan”, which makes me wonder if they are rebranded Panasonic/Eneloops.
Interestingly, IKEA sells two versions of their LSD rechargeables, one comparable to the big brands in terms of energy capacity, and the other roughly half the capacity at half the price, suitable for remotes and other low- power uses.
I’m not surprised at the rating of Ray-O-Vac. Of four batteries I put in a lantern a few years ago, two leaked within a couple of months of mostly sitting on a shelf, and the other two tested very poorly.
The author, as far as I can tell, does not mention the flashlights used which makes it impossible to recreate the test (one of the foundations of a scientific test).
There is no mention of cross-testing to ensure the multiple flashlights are actually identical as the author claims.
I’m testing major labels…
The author assumes “major label” implies “not counterfeit”. By failing to repeat the test with batteries purchased from multiple vendors “is counterfeit” is a possibility.
Different batteries have different drain characteristics. It is within the realm of possibility that the worst fairing on this test are the best performing in other devices.
Every AA / AAA Duracell I have owned for the last … let’s say “more than a year” … has leaked. When offset with destroyed cameras how cost effective are such batteries?
They probably are Duracells. Lately, they have been bad to leak. Duracell factory is reputedly closing their Tennessee plant (meth and opiates?) and moving to China.
I’m disappointed that Dollar General alkalines were not included. Years ago, I lived in a pickup truck during a period of marginal employment. No AC, just a battery operated fan full of AAs. DG never leaked and gave excelkent service.
Eneloops are my go-to now for everything. I keep a stash and a solar charger in my bug-out bag.
The problem, which should be obvious, is that batteries contain heavy metals and other toxic chemicals, which get buried along with all the other unthinkingly disposed of waste.
I get where you’re coming from but it’s not like there is a viable clean battery alternative and people are willingly holding onto existing batteries.
There quite a number of new battery tech being developed but i have no clue when we’ll see something cleaner roll out. Within the next 10 years if i had to give an uneducated guess, and going off how long it took for efficient LED light bulbs to get wide-spread adoption.
I did the flashlight test as well at some point and the results were not as cut and dried: the ones that lasted longer were by way of a very dimmed light where others just stopped working after a time, also the battery tester showed a fuller discharging in one over the other when dead. It may be better to have a product stop rather than work at diminished capacity.
Thanks for the link. That confirms my suspicions that the white-label LADDAs are probably Eneloops, and my subjective experience that they are very good batteries at bargain prices.
The old made-in-China LADDAs, by the way, had a green and silver colour scheme. I haven’t compared them, but I still have a number in use and I have no complaints.
It’s quite easy to have spare rechargables already charged and on hand for when they are needed. Today’s rechargables do very well keeping a charge while stored at room temp.