Video Bloggers of the world: A 15 second intro is WAAAAAAAY too long. This one annoyed me away from the content.
I would have been more impressed if it opened on the first strike.
Have not watched video, just wanted to say that a hammer is my go-to tool for quickly releasing padlocks.
If the lock’s expensive, I’ll have to really slam it precisely between the two holes where the shackle enters the body, and it’ll generally be unusable afterwards. You have to do it in one clean shot, and if the hasp’s in the way, you might need a cold chisel. But el cheapo locks can be knocked open dozens of times! You just have to bounce the locking pin or ball out of the divot in the shackle.
*edited to use correct names of parts.
Youtube keyboard shortcuts can help mitigate the annoyance. Tap right-arrow a few times when you start to see an annoying intro, and tap left if you went too far. (You might have to click on the video first to give it focus. If your click paused it, hit space to start it playing again.) Or use the number keys to jump around in 10% increments. And if you really want to get fancy, tap greater-than or less-than a few times to adjust the playback speed.
So is this because Masterlocks are terrible, or is this issue endemic to the fact that it’s a small padlock with a normal tumbler design? Can a relatively inexpensive padlocked-sized device that doesn’t open on a couple hammer taps be made?
people keep making them for him, it’s only polite to use them.
some locks are resistant to simple attacks.
More importantly, can relatively inexpensive padlocks be made that don’t open with a few hammer taps and not show any signs of tampering? There may be issues with designing a resistant mechanism at a smaller size, but it shouldn’t be able to be opened so cleanly. FWIW I’m not a lock expert.
My first thought was if that fails try stroking it with an angle grinder.
Depends on the hammer.
It’s possible, if you add liquid nitrogen.
Excellent video! Thanks.
That’s a fairly standard lock mechanism encased in a heavy and elaborate casing. If I can manage to work around the casing, there’s nothing preventing my usual techniques from working (including the “smash it with a hammer between the shackle legs” technique). But I think if I had to get through that one in a hurry I’d probably borrow an angle grinder
So what do you buy to keep your tool shed, or your back gate locked???
A few of these placed in prominently visible positions on the other side of the gate should be sufficient to ensure the gate stays locked.
I use cheap crappy Kwikset locks just like everybody else for those.
I believe your best protection against theft is availability of honest work in your neighborhood. If you don’t have that, nothing’s going to work in the long run, not even the dragon method.
All that being said, there are some… tricks I use that I’m not publishing on the Internet. If you have a one-off security system, you’ll lose something by telling people about it. But my best “trick” is being on good terms with my neighbors, I don’t mind sharing that one!
Edit: Also, I have a box of padlocks. And also another box of padlocks that I’ve actually got the combinations and/or keys to. I’m pretty sure I never bought a padlock, though - they’re like butane lighters, I find enough of them laying by the road that I’ve never needed to buy one.
I should put away my fascination with locks, since my home state regards possession of lockpicks with the utmost suspicion, but bosnianbill does periodically recommend shim proof padlocks, with bump proof locks. From what I understand, Masterlock is absolute crap.
The US Navy uses special locks which take advantage of latest security paranoia. Worried about someone using a telephoto lens to photograph your key’s bitting? Not to fear, the key is contained with a protective cylinder and injected into the lock. And so on.