You’re posting this because it’s West Coast Wintertime and the surf is picking up and I’m not on the West Coast so screw you.
Thank you for that. Bonus points for the Inception theme music, but more 'Chopes. Needs more chopes.
What’s the proper surf term of the gnarly wall of death at the end of the tube?
…works pretty well for me. Generally speaking, a “closeout” (or a wave that has “closed out”) describes the wave breaking so far ahead of the surfer that they are unable to outrun the lip to the shoulder. That is, getting back over the edge of the wave such that it passes underneath without catching the surfer in the resulting turmoil. Closeouts can be fun in their own right:
In the video I posted earlier, Teahupoo in Tahiti is generally considered one of the heaviest waves to surf because of the bottom topology of the reef it’s breaking over. Shipsterns is another spot that gets crazy huge swells–it’s shown early in the video in the OP. I don’t mean to sound all bro-tastic or EXTREME(!) about this, but surfing places like Shipsterns, Teahupoo, or Mavericks on a big day takes huge cart-necessary balls (and said balls are not limited to the male set, to be sure). Closeouts can be fun because it’s like being in a huge washing machine. Many times, the surfer can see it coming and turn parallel to the movement of the wave to escape the thrashing, but it’s also fun to throw caution to the wind and ride it straight into that gnarly wall of death!
But… how… they’re standing up on water… I don’t… but…
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