Seiko Quartz Metronome




Ordered. Thanks.


As cool as standalone metronomes are, I’ve replaced mine with “Practice Hub” on my phone. It’s open source and has more than just a metronome, but that’s the most useful bit for me. The tuner doesn’t work particularly well (I grabbed Pitch Lab for that; it’s got the handy feature of being able to setup custom instruments). It’s also capable of doing modestly complicated beat patterns (if you set it for four beats on, it will use a different click for the first beat, so you have a measure marker for 4/4 time).

I like putting the metronome on headphones to keep it a bit louder than my guitar when I’m running scales. And I liked the post just for the suggestion of metronome practice. It’s good for you. I know I need to do more of it. :slight_smile:


I really prefer seeing a physical metronome arm moving, it gives me a sense of anticipation of the next beat that a digital metronome can’t provide.


I use InTuna, it is a guitar strobe tuner. I may also be tone deaf but tuning by ear is very hard for me.

I also use the metronome with headphones. It is handy. For a while I would tap along with it at different speeds while traveling on airplanes, trying to acquire some rhythm. I have none.


Couldn’t there be a smartphone app that’d simulate it visually?


There is a light on top of the Metronome I posted that flashes but it doesn’t really help “anticipate” as an arm would.


True. There are two options offering themselves: a LED bargraph (on a hardware device), or a moving spot or a simulated swingy arm on a smartphone display.


I’ve used ‘old faithful’ if I’m practicing on my own and want a steady rhythm.


If my tuner’s not handy, I tune by ear using harmonics.


Does this “tune” a guitar or “tune it to itself” so whatever string you started with and however far off “Tap Dead Center” it is, every string will mirror? I am tone deaf so I won’t notice but others will…


Any technique that tunes the guitar by ear will tune the guitar to itself. If your top string is off, all your other strings will be off, but musically so. This was pretty normal for guitar tuning up until the 1980s when cheap pocket tuners hit the market. (Before this, recording artists just tuned to the studio piano, which was in whatever state it was in. The sound is all self-consistent on the record, but not necessarily on concert pitch.) So, if you want to be on concert pitch, you need a reference for at least one string if you tune by ear.

If you are not on concert pitch, but the guitar is self consistent, then you’ll sound fine. The only thing those of us with good pitch can tell is whether you are self-consistent or not. On my best days, I can only sort-of hear whether a note is a defined 12tet tone or not, and never enough to really tune by ear.

(For that matter: a couple months of voice lessons might help with your tone deafness. Or prove it definitively :wink:


By the way, a good exercise when it comes to metronomes is to practice with the beat at half or quarter tempo. As in it strikes every other beat or every four beats (or more!). It helps to internalize the tempo better than playing with every beat. At least for me.


By the way, a good exercise when it comes to metronomes is to practice with the beat at half or quarter tempo. As in it strikes every other beat or every four beats (or more!). It helps to internalize the tempo better than playing with every beat. At least for me.


Best guitar money I ever spent was on a proper set up from SF Guitar Works for my Martin HD-28 and my Fender Jazzmaster.


The nice thing about harmonic tuning is the noticeable quivering in the difference. You can audibly hear the quivering speed up when tightening, and vibrate at the same speed to the string you’re tuning to. Of course you need at least one string to be in tune.
The technique to train-up tone deafness (and really, all it is is training) is to sit at a piano (or guitar) and play a note, sing it (laaa), then pick the same note an octave up and do the same. Spend about 5-10 minutes with each note, and in a few days you’ll audibly start to hear the difference.
I don’t tap dead centre, but right over the 5th fret , and the 7th above it.
Also make sure your intonation on your guitar is good. Your bridge position should be such that the open strings tune the same as when played on the 12th fret (which will be an octave higher).
If the intonation is off it doesn’t matter how well the guitar is tuned with open strings, it’ll move further out of tune the higher you move up the neck.
So tune open first, then tune on the 12th fret adjusting the bridge if necessary.


“Tap dead center” as used here is not to mean I fret in the middle of the board, I fret at the fret. “Tap Dead Center” should have been “dead on balls accurate.”


I get ya. I added an edit to my post you might also want to check.


I bought this exact same model - ok, the plastic case is a smidge different - 30 years ago. Bullet proof and I love the big gnurled dial. When I’m in music mode and working out a beat I don’t want to tapdance through menus. I appreciate the thought that went into the simplicity of the thing. I did put a blob of superglue on the switch for a little more thumb purchase, tho.
But for tuning I use the Cleartune app for its scads of tuning choices: Like your A at 415? Fine. Tune to whatever the other folks are calling an A? Fine. Quarter comma meantone in G? Fine. It’s the tuner I see most often on music stands in the early music community.


You’re paying too much and getting too little. Check out, for example, the Korg tuner+metronome:

It’s cheap, tunes over your choice of basefrequency, has dozens of “tap sequences” and more.