The cutter I use is an Ortur 10-watt diode laser.
I don’t own it and didn’t choose it; it was donated to an organization I work with, and I volunteered to try it out and see what it could do. So, I haven’t done as much research as @tcg550. But here’s what I do know.
This is an entry-level machine by current standards. I think you could get one for maybe $600-$800 with some accessories.
The working area is 400mm square, or about 16", although in practice it’s a bit smaller. Some brands offer expansion kits to increase the working area.
This device’s laser has a fixed vertical (Z-axis) position, so it can only work on surfaces that are flat relative to the laser emitter and the X axis. The height is manually adjustable for focus and different thickness material, but it can’t move up and down on its own. So far, this hasn’t been a big problem. I also have a rotary chuck attachment, which replaces the Y axis gantry movement with rotation, so I can use it with cylindrical objects like tumblers or water bottles. But the X axis still has to be flat and level relative to the laser.
Diode lasers have lower power output than other types (like CO2), but are also simpler, less dangerous, and much less costly. 10 watts is near the low end of the hobby laser power range. I think @tcg550 is looking at a 20W, right? If I were to buy a laser now, I’d definitely go with 20 watts or more, for a diode laser. The model I have can use 20W laser heads, but I’d probably go with a different brand.
10 watts is sufficient to cut up to ~1/4" plywood, with multiple passes & depth/focus adjustment. It works well on 3mm and 1/16” basswood ply – common materials for this type of machine. Paper, cardboard, fabric, etc. also good.
It will etch acrylic and glass with special prep. You have to coat clear glass/acrylic with something to absorb the laser energy, otherwise the laser will just shine right through it and do nothing. I haven’t done anything with acrylic, but I did some tests of a glass bottle prepped with nail polish (removed w/ acetone after etching) that worked OK.
It will not cut or etch metal. Even higher-powered CO2 lasers will have a hard time with metal. You can paint or coat metal and “etch” the coating off.
Dangers: Cutting or etching anything, even at low power, will produce smoke, fumes, or both. Good ventilation is critical. I’m in my “workshop” (garage) and just open the garage door with a big fan, but that’s less than ideal in the winter. Most of what I’ve cut is plywood, and in addition to smoke there is fumes from whatever glue was used on the plies – not usually good to breathe. And of course there is the laser light, which can cause eye damage before you know it.
Software: Lightburn seems to be the standard for laser control. It’s great – very versatile and powerful – and worth the relatively low one-time cost. There’s a free trial. It can import layered Illustrator files, as well as SVGs and AutoCad DXFs. There are many such pre-made files available online. For designing original art, I use Illustrator, because it’s what I know. Other folks like InkScape, Corel Draw, Fusion 360 etc.
I hope this helps!
