A cool pallet this time around, with a green, a blue and a grey with ultra white trim. The catch is that I’m painting nearly the entire ground floor as part of this project. The colors will carry through the house. Guess my SO has finally had it with the super bright colors the house has been since I moved in and painted everything that was beige or white.
I’m documenting this whole project, so pics will go up as serious progress is made. With any luck, I’ll have a half finished tile floor to post next Monday (half, as in, tile down, but not grouted).
Sweet work. My only nitpick is the mold lines could use cleaning but it probably ins’t that obvious from 4 feet away. They need some proper basing though.
What game are they for?
It was originally intended for a GURPS Banestorm game.
Our heroes were heading for an encounter with a nasty necromancer/pirate in a galley powered by inexhaustible zombies; a zombie Ogre was the baddies’ main dragon.
The game dissolved due to mental illness on the GM’s (me) part before we got to that encounter, unfortunately.
Oooh those are nice.
One of my coolest gaming experiences was doing a 15mm sail game at a convention with a 1 page rule set called Limeys and Slimeys. There was one big 3 masted ship like that in scale for 15mm and all the groups little ships. It was a blast.
You’re speaking to someone who doesn’t know what drybrushing or a thin black wash is!
Literally, my children could draw/paint better than their mother by the time they were toddlers. I can manage stick figures, that’s it. Every time I tried to sign up for art classes in school while growing up, I was told I was too smart and had to stay in the academic track. How idiotic was that?
There are a lot of technical tricks anyone can do to make a decent looking model. My stuff looks good just from all the practice I have had more than anything.
Wash, a darker thin paint or better ink that will run down in the the shallow areas and emphasize the shading.
Drybrush is the opposite, wipe most of the paint off the brush and it will get the raised areas only.
It can make a world of difference in how the finished model looks.
I have the same problem. I’ve painted minis and my tactic is to just put X color on Y thing I want to be that color. Mr. Bells paints the whole thing black first, and then layers colors on top of it, and his look 1000x better than mine do.
Oh jeez I still think I do crap work, but then before I moved to Seattle I used to game with a guy who’s table top quality work was amazing. He had won multiple contests at game conventions. Good like right before I moved he said he was going to the big US Games-Workshop games day when they still had them. I told him he was gonna come home with a top prize. He got two. One was in a competition that allowed the studio painters to enter.
I am a lot better now but there is a lot you just don’t notice at arms length. If I gave a close up of some models you can see the oops missed fixing that things but it hides when viewed in a group of others at 3 feet away. Plus I am usually rushing to finish stuff before a tournament so there are always goofs somewhere.
So a long while back, I got it into my head that I wanted to compile my class notes into portable, modular, and nice-looking little notebooks. Part of this was due to a propensity on my part to forget my particular notebook for a particular class, leading to gaps. With this new system, I could use regular sheets of 8.5X11 graph paper or somesuch and then later scan them and reprint them into a format suitable for binding into a notebook. This system failed, but I did get it into my head recently that I know the courses on offer at my Uni, so I can prepare a number of these and sell them for specific courses.
I’ve tried staple, stitch, and perfect binding methods. Stitch looks the best and has the best durability. it’s also the most time consuming.
These are two stitch-bound books (slightly different sizes). I have a slight printing problem, since the toner is waterproof and lightfast, but seems to rub off. This is easily fixable, I think, by using a different printing method. Since it was just for me, I used a graph paper template that prominently displays a URL. Anything I made for someone else wouldn’t. Same thing goes for actual paper that goes inside. One of these uses printer paper, the other uses cotton bond. The printer paper is actually easier to write on, and I’ve experimented with a few different weights and finishes. The blurriness of the lettering is due to censorship on my part, not any printing defect. Tell me what you think. What would you pay for one?
I would probably buy them if I was going to those courses.
I’ve been meaning to bind my own books (or more specifically notebooks) but haven’t gotten around to it yet. Maybe I’ll get to it sooner rather than later.
up in your likes list, since I don’t have a real one to give.
