Look what arrived yesterday!!!
I love love love this one so much! Thank you, @FloridaManJefe !!!
(I’ll remove the image if it shows too much.)
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you’re good. glad you like it!
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I got mine, too.
How many will there be in the series, Jefe? (or is it open-ended?)
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there is a definite “end of the line”.
there will be six cards in the series, total.
then it will be on to the next subject…
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Thanks for reminding me that I have been remiss on sending my response to you. I’m just so worried about sending glass via the USPS, you know? I mean, if I were a proper manufacturer, I’d have all the right set-up, but instead I’m trying to cobble together old bubble wrap and such and hoping to find exactly the right size & shape of box.
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I recently embarked on a big project to rebuild part of our deck. The non-covered half has been slowly decaying over the years, so I’m going to tear that side off and build a larger addition just above ground level. Future improvements will involve replacing the roof and installing a stock-tank dipping pool.
Before:
Demolition so far:
More updates to come…
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your joists still look good; lucky!
we did some repair on a deck this week and all the joists were rotten , some as much as half the height and over 2 feet long, from where they met the outside band on inward. part of the problem is someone had done some earlier repairs that didn’t let the water drain and it pooled under the decking, fucking up the decking and the joists. also the original builder might be to blame, there was an absence of best practices sometimes, they didn’t double-band the outer frame, for one.
doesn’t look like yours has a double band, either. it’s not crucial if you don’t want to bother, but that’s “the right way.” if yours was rotten you’d be forced to, but your framing looks better than the jobs I’ve seen.
there is a product called deck tape that you can lay over the joists before laying over the decking and it repels water. most clients haven’t wanted to spring for it and it’s new enough that we haven’t encounterd it in the wild to see how/if it helps but seems like it would help greatly, the area it covers is the weakest link of a deck.
usually frames can be re-decked several times before the frame gives out, and rot on frame boards can be bolsterd by cutting another same-dimenson board greater than the length of the rot and screwing it along side the good parts of the original. the more primer, paint, stain, waterseal, you throw at it, the less often you need to repair. but unfortunately, a deck without a roof will eventually wear out.
sorry if this is remedial but maybe others would find it helpful. I’m just learning all this over the last several years.
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Thanks for the great info! The joists I’m removing are actually pretty rotten and have already been “sistered” in multiple places over time. But there’s another reason I’m replacing this section: to uncover a basement window. So that whole section goes away and will be replaced by a larger deck near ground level. I’ll definitely look into this “deck tape” for the new section.
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Reddit would say this deck will never be “complete” until you’ve put a tub that’s too heavy for it 
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I finally perfected the motion of the Video Feedback Device by using anodized aluminum shafts and linear bearings (more info at LightHerder.com)
Here’s Practice #1 with this new build, using just one camera and one monitor:
And Practice #2 with the new build, using all three cameras, four of the five monitors, plus the secondary input:
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Analog reaction-diffusion? That is really quite amazing. Not to mention the woodworking!
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I haven’t heard of reaction-diffusion till just now, but I see it’s like a complex Game of Life type of thing, which is what video feedback often reminds me of.
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more work at the NC lake house.
this may be the most custom cabinet we’ve ever built. accomodates the sink hook ups, the water cut-off, the dryer exhaust on either side, and the clean-out pipe that had to be boxed out from the kickplate. it’s a small cabinet, but took a long day to build.
the children love the bunk beds we built but both sets are directly below the master bedroom. so the clients ’ first priority was soundproofing, lol.
first we cut out the drywall in the center of the ceilings all the way across, then used a hole saw on either end, fed more insulation in the void between the cheap insulation already there and the drywall, and pushed it with a stick until I could pull it to the far end. it took forever and was exhausting and drywall dust and fiberglass got all over us. but we jumped the freezing lake after, which got it all off instantly.
then we plugged the holes in the drywall and laid tongue and groove over that .
then trim.
took a 53 hour week but it came out good
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I’d mean to tell you we received the lastest card. It’s awesome! And because you’d posted about your process here, I was able to explain some of it to my spouse when he asked 
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I took @noahdjango’s suggestion and availed myself of some joist tape. This stuff is made of butyl rubber. It’s a little pricey ($24 for a 4" x 75’ roll). Very easy to apply. I used a brayer to press it down. It can be cut with scissors, but do not use your spouse’s, partner’s, or co-worker’s good scissors.
Mostly done, still need to finish the railing.
I’ll use wire rope for the railings. Going the DIY route, not buying some overpriced kit. I have a swager tool so it’ll be pretty easy.
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“Do not use spouse’s fabric scissors.”
Taking notes for future reference.
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All I know is, if you use scissors to cut paper, they are ruined forever.
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