Cardboard? I don’t know. Is that a thing?
I did use a Grolsch swing top gasket one winter. That worked but the truck was only run around the block once a week and the oil didn’t heat up much.
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I made a intake gasket out of a reinforced silicone baking sheet. It was in a turbocharged vehicle that pushed 21 psi. The gasket worked great!…right up until it didn’t…
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“Customer states…”
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There is a reason I watch that channel with both fascination and trepidation…
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Hmm, changed the oil in my ride just Friday. Of course, they don’t list a compatible drain plug my vehicle - but the T-204 is the one that would match a 3/4-16 UNF thread…
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ETA
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Did you tell us about that car earlier? If not, spill the beans if you don’t mind being outed.
I note twin carbs on 4 cylinders, matching engine bay paint, no rust, modern steering column bushing and signs of enthusiastic use.
I posted a pic of it a while back sandwiched between a couple of newer trucks with some size-related snark, but no, haven’t told any stories otherwise.
It’s a ‘66 Volvo Amazon/122S/220 depending on whom you’re talking to. Amazon in the non-US world, 122S in the states and 220 internally to differentiate the wagon/kombi model from the 120/130 coupes and sedans.
Bought a similar ‘66 wagon locally in 2016 after selling a ‘70 Triumph Spitfire I’d had for years but was never going to transport up to Alaska. Have had a number of Volvo 240 sedans and wagons over the years and an Amazon was the (il)logical next step for something vintage, fun, and designed to exist in a winter climate. That first one needed more sheet metal love that I was ready to give it, so found the pistachio one in Olympia, WA and had it shipped up. It’s not perfect, but better in enough ways that it was worth the expense.
It’s a fun car that I I daily drive and get to tinker on. Keeps up with modern traffic fine, fabulous parts support, overengineered for what it is and <$10k. What more could you want?
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That’s a beauty! The sedans are cool too but I love me a wagon.
I had a series of hand-me-down Volvo’s. I miss the 240s but the best was the S70.
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The thing that is going to drive me catatonic one day is thread standards or maybe lengths in fractions.
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It drives me nuts when I hear an engineer describe a 1/4 - 20 screw dimension as being “intuitive”
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While I love the sundry errata associated with fasteners, I too hate non-metric fastener nomenclature - what the hell is this crap: #4-40 UNC? I mean I suppose #4 is no better or worse than M8-1.25 or eqiuvalent, but why does it go from #(number) to actual size listings versus maintaining the #(number) system.
Here’s a better guide than the wiki link above -
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I want at least three of those to be real.
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That numbering system seems weird too. From #0000 to #32 or something.
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DIN 889 for fitting multiple socket or box-end sizes, SAE and metric, looks useful. 
I’m sure I’ve seen DIN 910, for length adjustments, somewhere. It may have been provided with door lock hardware to fit various thicknesses of door.
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#4 is the number assigned to a bolt diameter, defined somewhere but I just use a plastic gauge with holes in it. For the larger sizes this is named in inches. 40 is the number of threads per inch.
For example, #10-24 UNC is a bolt with diameter 3/16" (about 5mm) and 24 threads per inch, national coarse standard, and #10-32 UNF has 32 threads per inch, national fine standard. The next common size larger is #1/4-20 UNC. See how simple? 
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At least it’s not as bad as medical devices. We have metric and imperial measurements coinciding on drawings and specs for different parameters on the same parts, as well as an industry-specific measurement needlessly derived from metric - the unit “French” - which translates to thirds of a millimeter.
So you can have a cardiac catheter than is 135 cm long, 6 French outer diameter, with a 0.035” inner diameter.
This is normal.
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