Actually, with appropriately miniaturized scuba gear and an almost-definitely-cruel regimen of training and/or implanted control electrodes, weasels could be a potent force for good in dealing with drain issues.
Small, sleek, vicious digging claws… Once the appropriate respiratory implants allow for suitable underwater endurance and the electrodes prevent them from doing the obvious thing and just attacking you rather than doing their job; they would be perfect.
If you are at someone else’s house and need to discreetly unclog a toilet, without the incriminating sound of plunging, try slowly filling the toilet to the brim by holding down the handle.
The increased water weight will often push the offending evidence away from prying eyes.
Warning!! If this does not work, then you have a clogged toilet AND it is full to the brim, making it harder to plunge. Proceed at your own risk.
Addendum: When plunging, try to remove as much air from the inside of the plunger by tilting it under the water. Removing the air before you begin helps minimize blowback, which can be useful for keeping shit off of the floor.
The ones in the tutorial are small, but I have zip ties that are about a quarter inch wide and 18 inches long. They’re great for this. You can get a pack of 200 for like $8.
I knew a guy, he was a genius at that. Did all the work himself – felling trees, cutting, shaping, fitting to foot, stuffing into toilets. A real Sabot Auteur.
My first memory of plumbing problems was watching water come through the kitchen ceiling light fixture while my dad was using the plunger on the upstairs tub. Oops. I was old enough to know to stay away from the electricity and go tell him right away, but young enough that I don’t remember what eventual repairs had to happen; presumably professionals were involved.
I keep two sets of plungers - clean ones for sinks and bathtubs, and another for toilets, but they’re all the shape designed for toilets that has a narrowed opening a the bottom. The kitchen has a double sink, so it needs two, one for each side. Generally, what works well isn’t simply pushing, but pushing and pulling enough times that I hear gurgling from down where the clog is, and pulling them back up weakens them a good bit. (There’s also my father’s recommendation for why he was much better at it than the rest of us, which is “You tried it right after it got clogged up; by the time you came to me after you couldn’t fix it, it had a while to soak, and that helps a lot.”)
I didn’t realize when I got the Drain Weasel from Amazon that the part number you posted was just for a refill; there’s a crank-handle part as well, which would make it much more useful. What I did instead was figure out how to disassemble one of the newer sink drains to get at the plastic trapped farther down, and for the old one, plunger.
US plumbing is undersized in my experience. We never had plumbing issues in Australia, but every US house we’ve lived in has had problems. So I looked into it - Australian sink standard is 40mm (1 1/2 inch), I’ve seen plenty of 1 inch washbasin pipes in the US. Likewise, Australian bathtub pipes are 50mm (2 inch), but 1 1/2 or even 1 inch is considered acceptable in the US. Now the area of a pipe goes as the square of the diameter, but the flow capacity is closer to the cube of the diameter for domestic pipes due to friction; so undersizing your drain is going to lead to misery. I replaced all mine with larger ABS in an afternoon, and our formerly temperamental sewers are no longer an issue. It’s not hard to do, the parts are cheap, so find a few youtubes or watch this old house, and fix it properly.
Typically US sink p- and s-traps are sized 1.25" for washrooms and small bathrooms, 1.5" for kitchens and large bathrooms, and 2" for laundries and public bathrooms. Actual legal requirements vary considerably with jurisdiction.
Again typically, you’re allowed to replace an S-trap, and drum traps are allowed for certain particular circumstances, but P-traps are the standard for all new construction since the 1960s.
The new “Uniform Plumbing code” that is slowly, painfully being adopted across the country has a table that relates DFUs (drainage fixture units) and drainage capacity and whatnot, but after you do all your cross-referencing and vent stack calculations it ends up conforming to the traditional system that was developed by trial and error (it just adds more stuff, like bidets and dental cuspidors).
So anyway, I do not believe a 1" waste pipe has ever been legal or desirable anywere in the USA. That being said, we have a 300 year old DIY tradition here, and places like Home Despot and Lowes will cheerfully sell homeowners very dangerous, completely illegal stuff like bell traps and crown-vented traps and plastic dryer vents etc. etc. etc… so I have no difficulty believing 1" sink drains exist, and that you’ve seen them!
Some aircraft toilets are basically just a box with a gate valve on the top of the box, and I recall pulling one of those toilet boxes from an aircraft that’d been sitting on a hot runway for a few days to dump it in the bathroom. Figured I’d depressurize the box with the gate valve first, and then take off the big screw cap to dump the contents. Unfortunately, I didn’t think to avert my face, so when I slightly cracked the gate valve, I could both smell the horrid fecal stink coming from the box, as well as feel tiny, cool, droplets of (what I assume to be) liquid fecal matter settling onto my face and lower arms.
IIRC, I believe I DID become a barf-fountain for a short while afterwards.